Cyril Molard (Ma Langue sourit): A restaurant is a three-part dialogue
For Cyril Molard, chef at “Ma Langue sourit” in Moutfort, cooking is not a solitary art.It’s a dialogue between the chef, the product and the person who eats it.
Reading a dish
Every dish that comes out of a kitchen contains multiple messages. Like a good wine or a good book, there are different ways of appreciating it and expressing its emotions. “You have to realise that very few people will understand everything the chef has tried to say. The plate illustrates his way of looking at cooking, as he tries to give a real identity to each of his dishes. But deep down, he knows that for his guest, the evening will be devoted to the most elementary kind of gourmet pleasure. Chefs regularly invite each other to appreciate the authentic pleasures of good food.” The difficulty lies in continually adapting to the seasons and deliveries. “The menu changes every month and the set menu changes every week, sometimes every day, to cope with the requirements of purchasing the best produce.
We have taken a dish from the menu, at random: “Blue lobster confit with savory, almonds, tomatoes, courgettes in basil, pesto and shellfish sauce.” Explanation of the text: “The hero of the dish is the blue lobster from Brittany. It’s so good that we simply poach it for three minutes in aromatic butter, at a low temperature. Next, we dry it and add a dash of fleur de sel (refined salt). For the topping, a very green purée of courgettes, basil with a dash of mascarpone is perfect. It’s light and very fragrant. A few girolle mushrooms, almonds and courgette tips to please the eye and the mouth. Quartered tomatoes from Cailloux in Provence, with Pensato lemon olive oil. The final touch: almond milk and a few very strong, colourful dashes created with the lobster carcass and the tomato off-cuts. My message is primarily a tribute to nature, to exceptional products, and to the people who grow them.”
Continuing the dialogue“When I was involved in the opening of the “Flocon de Sel” in 1997 (The only new 3-star restaurant in France in 2012, Editor) the chef Emmanuel Renaud insisted on meeting every guest as they left the restaurant. I always follow this concept.Gourmet food lovers in Luxembourg are usually great travellers, which contributes significantly to the discussion.” During this meeting, some express their opinions, and inquire on the origin of the products, the chef’s background and the cooking secrets. Sometimes the discussion turns to another subject: “Why aren’t there more2-star restaurants in Luxembourg?” The conversation has only just begun.